Stop Laptop Thermal Throttling: 7 Practical Fixes

Your fan is screaming and your game just dropped to 15 FPS because your laptop started running hot. This is thermal throttling, and it is not permanent damage. This page gives you seven specific steps to lower the temperature and restore full speed, starting with the quickest fixes.

Confirm it is heat, not a power plan issue

Before you open the laptop or buy parts, confirm the cause. A laggy laptop is not always thermal throttling. Sometimes it is just set to power saving mode. We go through reducing excessive heat step by step in its own article.

Download a free tool like HWiNFO64 or HWMonitor. Run your usual heavy task and watch the CPU temperature and clock speed simultaneously.

• Temperature hits 95°C+ and speed drops: This is thermal throttling. You need to cool the system down.
• Temperature is low but speed drops: This is power throttling. Check your power plan settings first.
• Temperature is normal and speed is normal: The problem is software, not heat.

If the temperature stays under 85°C, do not worry about cooling. Focus on the power settings instead.

Fix your power plan and performance settings

Windows often limits performance to save battery, which causes the CPU to run inefficiently and heat up. You need to tell it to use full power.

On Windows 10 or 11, open Control Panel and select Power Options. Click the down arrow next to the battery icon to see more options.

1. Select High Performance. This is the quickest win for many users.
2. If you only use a battery, try the Balanced plan but ensure Processor performance is set to maximum.

This change alone can stop throttling if the CPU was just struggling to maintain speed. It costs nothing and takes one minute. If that sounds like your bench, read up on resolve laptop overheating throttle next.

Improve airflow with a stand or cooling pad

Most laptops have their air intake on the bottom. When sitting flat on a desk, that air gets recycled, or blocked by dust. You need fresh air to reach the vents.

A simple book under the back edge works, but a dedicated stand is better. You want something that raises the rear by at least an inch.

• Mesh stands: Allow air to pass straight through the bottom vents.
• Cooling pads: Active fans that blow air onto the chassis.

Product P1 is a good example. It raises the laptop and has a mesh surface that keeps the bottom intake open.

Try this while your laptop is off, then boot it up and check your temperatures. You should see a drop of 5°C to 10°C immediately.

Blow out the fan and heatsink dust

Dust is the number one enemy of cooling. It builds up in the fan fins and blocks the path of air. You need to remove it without damaging the fan motor. For the detail, see our notes on gaming laptop thermal fixes.

Do not use a standard compressed air can. The pressure can spin the fan too fast and damage the bearings. Use a dedicated electric duster instead.

Product P2 is a strong alternative here. It provides consistent high-pressure air without the risk of over-spinning the fan blades.

1. Power off the laptop and unplug it.
2. Locate the exhaust vents on the side.
3. Use the duster to push air into the intake vents on the bottom.
4. Watch for dust puffing out the back. You may need to hold the fan still with a finger or toothpick.

Replace the thermal paste

If your laptop is older than two years, the thermal paste is likely dry and cracking. It no longer transfers heat efficiently from the chip to the heatsink.

Replacing this is the most effective hardware fix. You are swapping out a sludge-like substance for fresh, high-conductivity material.

• What you need: A small screwdriver and a high-quality thermal paste.
• The result: Temperatures often drop by 10°C to 20°C.

Product P3 is a solid choice. It is a dense paste that stays in place and handles high temperatures well.

Only do this if you feel comfortable opening the back panel. If you are not confident, take it to a repair shop. Loaders in this spot often ask about how to safely clear out built-up dust as well.

Undervolt the CPU for less heat

Undervolting lowers the electricity the CPU uses. Less electricity means less waste heat. This can be done through software without opening the laptop.

Use a tool like ThrottleStop or Ryzen Controller. You want to lower the voltage by a small amount, like 50mV to 100mV.

• Intel CPUs: Use ThrottleStop. Watch for crashes and revert if they happen.
• AMD CPUs: Use Ryzen Controller. Test stability under load for 30 minutes.

If the system remains stable, you just reduced your heat output significantly. This is a safe step if you check your stability first.

Note: Some newer Intel laptops lock this feature in the BIOS. If the software does not work, skip this step.

Change how Windows handles the heat

If the heat comes from the operating system, you can adjust how aggressively the CPU uses power. This is done in the BIOS or Windows settings.

You can limit the maximum multiplier. This stops the CPU from trying to hit its highest frequency, which generates the most heat.

This is a trade-off. You will have lower peak performance, but the laptop will run cooler and quieter. It is a good fix for office work where silent operation matters more than speed.

Find the Maximum Multiplier setting in your BIOS (often under CPU configuration). Lower it by 1 or 2 points. Save and test your temperatures.

The bottom line

Frequently asked questions